All righty, so one of the things that I always like to do whenever we’re traveling, and especially when we did our 5-week trip up to NSW, is every time we had a Caravan Park booking, always making sure that we give the office a call either a day before or the day of. Always provide them with a couple of hours. You want to ensure that it’s gone through, especially if you’re doing online bookings. There are so many vans on the road now, and the last thing you want to do is get to your destination or get into the town where there maybe two or three Caravan parks and find that there’s been an error with the booking or there’s been a double booking or something like that. So, as good practice, I always prefer to pick up the telephone the day before you’re meant to get there or the morning before and ensure the booking is in the system; they expect you. The last thing you want to do is get there at the last minute, especially if you’ve been traveling all day with a family, to find out that the site’s been double booked or something’s happened. The online booking platforms now are fantastic. Still, I’m old-fashioned regarding picking up the telephone, speaking to an actual human being on the other side of the desk, and ensuring they have your booking. So, first and foremost, before you get there, always do a little courtesy call back to whatever park it is that you’re in.
And you must make a plan in advance. I’ve mentioned this on film a couple of times before, and we thought we would be fine, especially on that East Coast, but multiple times, it’s 4:30, 5:00 in the afternoon, and we are hustling trying to get someone to take us. We had to free camp twice because we could not get a site. So, if you’re trying to be more free-flowing, one of the first things when you get to the park is to make sure you park off to one side. Your Caravan Parks will have a designated parking bay off to one side. The last thing you want to do is go up to the boom gate because you will affect other people trying to get in and out of the park. People already in a setup have gone out for lunch or dinner and are trying to come back in. The check-in process can take a bit, especially if a couple of people are before you. So, park off to either the left or right-hand side of the boom gate, depending on the park. It’ll have a stop sign like this or something to indicate that this is where you need to park whenever it’s time to check-in.
All right, we’re very fortunate; we’re Backed onto the back of the toilet block, so you can go right out and swing out nice and wide towards the toilet block. There’s a heap of room. Sometimes, there’ll be caravans just on the other side of you, and it’s a little bit tighter to get around, but I’ve got lots of room here to reverse in. So, just be looking up here. We’ve got a big gum tree here alone, so I want to ensure there are no low-hanging branches and nothing there could hit the side of the van.
We want to be, again, your van’s going to be, call it, 3 meters high, so you want to make sure that you’ve got plenty of room when you’re going in. But the branches of this gum tree are pretty high, so we’ve got plenty of room here. It’s a relatively flat site, so we shouldn’t need any chocks or anything like that. They’ve put some matting down, which is quite lovely. Our Power and water are off on our door side, meaning we’ll have to run the cables and the hose around the backside. But again, they’ll always try to have it sitting between two sites to maximize space. But all looks pretty good. There’s nothing here on the ground. Again, we’ve got an easy check-in and swing-through, so let’s get it in.
All right, so we are back here. We just did a little stopover in the main street of Tanunda to grab some lunch, but we are back now at the caravan park to run you through the rest of this setup. So, what we’re going to be doing today is running through precisely the tips and tricks for setting up. So, what you’ve seen is more about getting to the destination. Now, we will unhook it and run you through the actual setup process inside the caravan park, as well as a few things you must look out for. So, first things first is the jockey wheel. So, we want to take the van out of the car before we level the van up. I’ve invested in one of these little jockey wheel receivers here. So, this will sit underneath where the wheel goes in, so that will sit like so. Now, I love this. If you’re on a slope or uneven ground, it stops the chance of that wheel potentially rolling, giving you a little lift and additional lift. So, I always sit underneath where that jockey wheel will go. Make sure that clamp is nice and tight, so I’ll hold that there with one foot. If I don’t have the foot there, you’ll see it will just go in circles like so. All right, we’ve got that in position. We’re going to come over here to our coupling, handbrake, chains, and all of our cords.
First, make sure we pull that coupling back and drop the chains up to you, whether you want to keep the D-shackles on the vehicle or the caravan. D-shackles tend to go walkabouts, so I prefer to take them off and put them in the car drawer system. We’ll be hooking it on again soon, so I will leave them on the back of the vehicle. And the 12-pin plug, don’t just let these dangle on the ground. Okay? You get a bit of wet weather overnight; you don’t want these filling up full of mud and water and grime, so wind them up, whether you wind them around the jockey wheel or just let them sit here lovely and high, so they’re just up out of the weather. And the same deal applies to your chains, so I want to get that right up. We’re now clear of the pin, and we’re good to drive the vehicle forward.
Now, before I run away and park the car in our little designated spot here on the site, I’m just going to pull out my trusty level. Before we put down our stabilizer legs and stabilize the caravan, you must get the van to the highest level possible. The last thing you want to do is prepping and cooking inside the caravan; the benchtops aren’t reasonably level. They’re running uphill or downhill; things will roll around, and there’s nothing worse than laying in bed and having your head up or down. So, the more levels you can get in the caravan, the better. Again, this is just a tiny little level. I only do this because the draw system is relatively small, but it does the trick and gets you close 90% of the time. So, what I do is sit at the level here. It’s got a little magnet there, and I’ll watch the bubble. Okay? I will wind this down until the bubble’s in the center of the lines, maybe somewhere there, up a tad. So, I’ll always like to stand back and visually have a look at the van.
But as you can see there, we are close. The level says it’s level; it’s in position. Again, it’s only a trim level, so there will be some discrepancies, but that looks pretty good. I’m happy there. I’m going to put the legs down now.
All right, I will move the car now that that is done. Again, courtesy inside the caravan parks, you always want to keep the roads and walkways nice and clear. So, now we’re unhooked and have it nice and level. I put the level back in the car so we wouldn’t leave that behind and lose it. I will move the car and get that out of anyone’s road.
The van’s in, legs down, and in position. So, I’m just going to hook up to Power. A critical point to note is that I’ve just got this nice little cord winder here, which makes life easy, but one thing to note is that you do not want to leave the cord in a wound-up position like this. You want to ensure that you completely unravel the cord, and before we plug it into the van and leave for any period, you want to ensure that the coil is stretched out as far as you can. Much apparent heat runs through this cord when it is plugged into 240-volt mains power, and you don’t want the cord coiled up like you can see it here on the ground underneath your caravan. You want to make sure that you stretch it out so that electricity and that current obviously can disperse throughout the cord and not be all coiled up, creating a heat spot right here underneath your new caravan. So, we’ll grab this 15-amp lead and ensure we plug that in there. All right, and we’ll ensure the safety switch is turned on, which it already is. I am a neat freak, so I want to stretch this out and make it as tidy as you can behind the van.
But as you can see, I will try my hardest not to have this all coiled up. All righty, now that’s nice and neat, laid at the back of the van. We’re not going to create any hot spots when it comes to 240-volt Power.
Again, make sure you always pop these straight back in the boot or wherever they belong, wherever your spot is. Again, you want to ensure these items are at every campsite. So, for me, I’ll pop these back in straight away and make sure that they are back in there, and I know that I’m going to grab my fitting of the hose point before I leave. But now, I think we are done on the outside—time to jump inside and set up there.
Before you put the TV antenna up, you have a look outside because you don’t want to lift it into a tree branch or anything like that. So, I’ve already checked ours, ensuring we have a clear way for the antenna to go up. So, we pop that up. So, I’ve made plenty of videos about antennas in the past. You will find them inside of this channel as well. But a hot little tip when you’re here at the location at the caravan park is to stick your head out the window, look at your neighbors, see what their antenna is facing, and do precisely that. So, we’ve looked outside; we can see that antennas are facing over in the direction of the main entrance to the caravan park. So, we will pull that down and rotate the angle around like this. All right, before I tune the TV in, our probability of getting it the first time will increase if we do that.
Okay, another tip to remember is with your hot water system. If you have an instantaneous hot water system, it’ll be exactly that. The hot water will be instant. But if you have a tank hot water system, the more common and conventional one inside our industry, it will take about 10 to 12 minutes to heat up. Okay? So, when you reach your destination, whether the hot water system is running on gas or electricity, it will take a little longer to heat up. So, just be patient when it comes to your hot water. You won’t be able to jump in the shower immediately unless you have an instant system. So, a conventional hot water system, 10 to 12 minutes, is a rule of thumb there. But again, we now have our water on; we have the hot water system on, so we are in the waiting game now for that to heat up.
Everyone, we have just about completed the setup of this particular demonstration of the van behind here today. I will talk about caravan park etiquette or campground etiquette. Ensure you are cautious and conscious of your neighbor’s next door if you love a good movie or putting the tunes on over a beer or a glass of red wine. They might not have the same desire for your music as you do. So, ensure you get nice and friendly with your neighbor, go over, say hello, and introduce yourself. But one of the things that I’ve always kept at the top of my mind is when your neighbor is setting up or packing up, just let them go about their business. We want to call them Eddie, the experts in this industry. The guy always comes over and wants to lend a hand or get involved when you’re trying to set up or pack up. Now, we know many things to remember and do, especially when packing up. So, when doing it, you would like to be left alone to go through your process. So, do the same thing with your neighbor next door. Just let them go through their process, and we don’t want to be getting involved because that’s how things get missed. That’s how you see people driving down the road with their antenna up or down the road, and the door flies open because they’ve forgotten to do a particular item when it comes down to their pack down and checklists. So, yeah, just be very cautious and conscious of that. And again, if you’re playing music, ensure you’re looking at the time. When the sun goes down, again, we want to lower the noise inside the caravan park, especially with the young families around. You know, so many children go to bed so early now. So, you know, children generally go to bed much earlier than you are. So, if you have a family next door, you know, potentially, the mother has just spent half an hour trying to get that baby to go down to bed at 7 p.m. The last thing they want to hear is AC/DC blaring through the outside speakers, waking that baby up. So, make sure Some campground and caravan park etiquette is held there. Another one as well: don’t walk through someone’s campsite. Again, this area here is a sacred space. Okay? So, you want to be walking around the outside of where the person’s vehicle is. Yes, you may want to go the closest route to the dump point or the nearest route to the toilets or the camp kitchen, but make sure that some common courtesy is had inside the caravan parks. You don’t want you or your children bustling under someone’s rolled awning to get to where they’re heading. So, just be conscious of that as well. And again, never miss happy hour. That is key.
The final message is to ensure we can see some friends by the fire, sitting down, connecting, networking, and getting to know one another. There are so many stories that have been told here at caravan parks. It is such a good way to meet people. It’s a good way to connect over a beer or a glass of red and share a story. So, be friendly, get out there, and get to know the people around you because you’ve got things in common. You’re all caravaners, you’re all campers. So, again, you’ve got a great starting point for a conversation.
So, there we have it, everyone. I wish I had been staying out here for a week. The weather today has been perfect in the Barossa Valley. We enjoyed ourselves coming out here and sharing our journey with you. We stopped over in the main street for lunch. It may have been a long lunch, so why is the evening upon us here now? So, those are the tips and tricks we have for you when it comes to getting to a caravan park safely, especially if you are a first-time caravanner and new to this industry. These little tips and tricks have helped you and will make your journey more manageable in the caravan park. Again, there are plenty of people around if you need to ask for help. Ask for help, but take your time, take a deep breath, and relax. It’s not a race. All right? We want to make sure that we make this experience, the experience of caravanning and camping, as enjoyable for you and your family as possible.
Electrical mistakes in RVs can go from annoying to catastrophic in an instant. Fires, blown circuits, or even fried electronics—these are real dangers if you don’t know what to look for. But don’t worry – we’ve got 10 game-changing RV electrical tips to keep you safe on the road. Now, let’s get started!
Never plug your RV directly into a campground power pedestal without first checking voltage, polarity, and the outlet’s condition. Skipping these safety checks can result in severe electrical damage or fire. A surge protector with voltage monitoring is essential equipment for safeguarding your RV’s electrical system.
Campground power pedestals don’t always deliver the standard 120 volts. Voltage below 105 volts causes appliances to draw excessive current and overheat, while voltage above 135 volts can destroy sensitive electronics. Always verify the voltage is within safe limits before connecting.
Reversed polarity—where hot and neutral wires are swapped in the outlet—creates a dangerous situation where appliances remain energized even when switched off. This poses a serious shock hazard. Using a polarity tester before connecting can identify this hazard immediately.
Lightning strikes, faulty wiring, and voltage spikes can send destructive power surges through your RV’s electrical system. A quality surge protector prevents these surges from damaging your converter, appliances, and wiring, helping you avoid expensive repairs.
Before connecting, inspect the power pedestal for signs of damage like burnt or melted outlets. Always switch off the pedestal’s breaker before plugging in your power cord to prevent arcing. When disconnecting, turn off the breaker first, then unplug. Following these basic safety procedures protects both your RV’s electrical system and, more importantly, the safety of you and your family.
RVs have limited electrical systems that can easily overload. Unlike houses, a 30-amp system maxes out at 3,600 watts, while a 50-amp system can handle up to 12,000 watts across two legs. Running too many high-wattage appliances simultaneously is dangerous and among the most common mistakes RV owners make.
Understanding your power consumption is crucial. Major appliances like air conditioners typically draw 2,000 watts, while microwaves use around 1,500 watts. On a 30-amp system, running these together would push your system beyond safe limits. Never exceed your RV’s total electrical capacity, as this can lead to overheated wiring, tripped breakers, or electrical fires.
A Kill-A-Watt meter helps you track individual appliance power usage, making it easier to manage your electrical load. By measuring each device’s wattage, you can plan which appliances can safely run simultaneously. This knowledge helps prevent system overload and ensures safe operation.
The risks of circuit overload are severe. RV wiring is thinner than household wiring, making it more vulnerable to damage from excessive current. Overloaded circuits can cause overheating, melt wire insulation, and potentially start fires. Watch for warning signs like discolored outlets or burning smells, which indicate dangerous overheating.
To maintain safety, prioritize essential appliances and turn off unused devices. Regular checks of circuit breakers and outlets help catch potential problems before they become dangerous. Never use a damaged or frayed power cord with your RV—it’s an immediate safety hazard that can lead to electrical fires or fatal shocks.
Damaged cords can create dangerous arcing where electricity jumps across gaps in the wiring, generating intense heat that can ignite nearby materials. This risk increases significantly in wet campground conditions. Beyond the immediate dangers of shock and fire, damaged power cords can deliver unstable power to your RV’s electrical system. These voltage fluctuations can destroy expensive components like converters, air conditioners, and other appliances, leading to costly repairs and shortened equipment life.
Inspect your power cord regularly, paying special attention to the plug ends where stress concentrates. Look for any signs of wear, cracking, fraying, or melted insulation. If you spot damage, replace the cord immediately. Temporary fixes like electrical tape aren’t safe solutions and only mask the underlying hazard.
Proper cord storage prevents damage—avoid sharp bends and kinks that weaken internal wiring. Use a cord reel or create gentle loops when storing. Always turn off the breaker before unplugging to prevent dangerous arcing at the connection point. Always use the correct RV-rated power cord for your amperage needs (30 or 50 amps). Keep a spare cord on hand so you’re never tempted to use a damaged one. This small investment in safety equipment can prevent life-threatening accidents and protect your RV’s electrical system.
Using incorrect extension cords with your RV creates serious safety hazards. Standard household extension cords are inadequate for RV power needs and can overheat dangerously. When undersized cords try to handle an RV’s high current demand, they generate excessive heat that can melt insulation and trigger fires. Wire gauge is crucial— 30-amp RVs require at least 10 AWG extension cords, while 50-amp systems need even thicker (6 or 8 AWG). Using thinner gauge cords like 16 AWG creates dangerous resistance and heat buildup that can damage both the cord and your RV’s electrical system.
Length matters significantly with extension cords. Longer cords cause voltage drop, forcing appliances to work harder and potentially fail prematurely. Keep extension cords under 25–50 feet whenever possible. Never daisy chain multiple cords together—each connection point increases resistance and creates potential arcing hazards. Watch for signs of a voltage drop, like dimming lights or sluggish appliance performance. These indicate your extension cord setup isn’t delivering adequate power, which can damage expensive RV components.
Remember that voltage drop compounds with cord length and smaller wire gauges. Only use heavy-duty RV-rated extension cords matched to your amperage requirements. Regularly check cords for damage like cracks, wear spots, or loose connections. Replace any damaged cords immediately. The cost of a new cord is minimal compared to the risk of fire or electrical system damage from using compromised equipment.
GFCI outlets are critical safety devices that prevent electrocution by detecting ground faults—situations where electricity takes an unintended path (often through water or a person). This protection is especially important in RVs, which are frequently exposed to wet and humid conditions. These outlets work by constantly monitoring electrical current flow. When they detect even a tiny imbalance between the outgoing and returning current (as little as 4-6 milliamps), they cut power within milliseconds. This rapid response can prevent fatal electric shocks.
A dangerous mistake many RVers make is repeatedly resetting tripped GFCI outlets without investigating why they tripped. GFCI trips often indicate serious issues like moisture infiltration, faulty appliances, or damaged wiring. Ignoring these warning signs by simply resetting the outlet can create hazardous conditions. Monthly testing of GFCI outlets is essential but often overlooked. Like any safety device, they can wear out and fail to provide protection when needed. Test by pressing the test button—the outlet should immediately cut power. If it doesn’t trip during testing, replace it right away.
If a GFCI outlet trips frequently, inspect the area and connected devices for moisture or damage. Never overload these outlets with too many high-wattage appliances. When in doubt about recurring GFCI issues, have them inspected by a professional. The small cost of inspection far outweighs the risk of electrical accidents.
Battery maintenance is crucial for RV safety and reliability, yet many owners neglect this important task. Poor maintenance can lead to battery failure, reduced power capacity, dangerous overheating, or even explosions due to hydrogen gas buildup. Since batteries power essential safety systems like smoke detectors, proper maintenance isn’t optional. For flooded lead-acid batteries, water level maintenance is critical. Check levels monthly and add distilled water when needed to keep lead plates submerged. Exposed plates suffer permanent damage, reducing battery capacity and lifespan. Never overfill – this can cause dangerous acid spillage during charging.
Battery terminal corrosion seriously impairs electrical flow and efficiency. Inspect terminals regularly and clean any corrosion with a baking soda solution and wire brush. Apply petroleum jelly or terminal protector after cleaning to prevent future corrosion buildup. This simple maintenance step significantly improves battery performance and safety. Proper ventilation is non-negotiable for battery safety. During charging, batteries release hydrogen gas that can accumulate to dangerous levels in enclosed spaces. Ensure your battery compartment has adequate airflow to prevent potentially explosive gas buildup. This is especially important when batteries are housed in confined spaces.
Monitor battery charge levels regularly with a voltmeter or battery monitor. Avoid completely depleting batteries—deep discharges significantly reduce their lifespan. For specialized batteries like lithium or AGM types, always follow the manufacturer’s specific maintenance guidelines, as these can differ significantly from traditional lead-acid batteries.
Understanding the difference between inverters and converters is crucial for RV electrical safety. Inverters change battery DC power to AC power for household appliances, while converters do the opposite—changing shore power AC to DC for charging batteries and running 12-volt systems. Using these devices incorrectly can damage expensive electronics or create safety hazards. The type of inverter you choose matters significantly. Modified sine wave inverters (while cheaper) produce unstable power that can damage sensitive electronics like laptops, smartphones, and medical equipment. Using them with appliances like microwaves or refrigerators can cause overheating, reduced efficiency, and eventual failure.
Always use pure sine wave inverters for sensitive electronics—they provide the clean, stable power these devices require. Wattage capacity is another critical consideration. Exceeding an inverter’s rated wattage can cause dangerous overheating or sudden shutdowns. Always calculate the total wattage of devices you’ll run simultaneously and choose an inverter rated above that level. This provides a safety margin for unexpected power surges. Proper inverter care includes ensuring adequate ventilation to prevent overheating, regular inspections for damage, and careful monitoring of power loads. When selecting an inverter, choose one with slightly higher capacity than your expected needs to handle peak loads safely.
These cautions protect both your expensive electronics and your RV’s electrical system from damage. Remember that compromising on inverter quality to save money often leads to costly repairs or replacements of damaged electronics later. Investing in appropriate equipment yields protected devices and provides peace of mind.
Never plug in or unplug your RV without first turning off the main breaker at the power pedestal. This commonly skipped step prevents dangerous arcing where electricity jumps through the air between connections. When arcing occurs, it generates intense heat that can melt plug prongs, damage outlets, and create fire hazards. Arcing damage isn’t always immediately visible but can be severe. The intense heat degrades both your power cord and the pedestal connections over time. Even brief arcing episodes can compromise internal wiring in your RV or the power pedestal, leading to future electrical failures and increasing fire risks.
Repeated arcing also reduces the effectiveness of surge protectors and can damage your RV’s electrical system. The safe connection sequence is simple but crucial: First, verify the main breaker is off before plugging in your power cord. Once the cord is fully and securely connected, turn the breaker back on to restore power. When disconnecting, always turn off the breaker before unplugging the cord. These few extra seconds can prevent serious electrical damage. Regularly inspect your power cord’s prongs for signs of arcing damage like pitting, discoloration, or melting. Any visible damage means the cord needs immediate replacement. Continuing to use a damaged cord dramatically increases the risk of electrical fires or system damage.
This simple habit of turning off breakers before connections protects your expensive RV electrical systems, extends equipment life, and, most importantly, prevents dangerous electrical accidents that could put your safety at risk.
Never ignore outlets that feel warm or emit burning smells—these are serious warning signs of dangerous electrical problems. Unlike house wiring, RV electrical systems are more vulnerable to overheating due to their lighter-duty construction and limited power capacity. Overheating typically stems from loose connections (increasing electrical resistance), overloaded circuits, or faulty wiring. Watch for three critical warning signs: outlets that feel warm or hot to touch, burning smells near electrical components, and discolored or charred outlets. Any of these symptoms demands immediate action—they indicate that insulation may be melting and a fire could be imminent.
RV wiring’s lighter construction makes it especially susceptible to heat damage. When you discover a hot outlet or burning smell, take immediate action. First, unplug all devices from the affected outlet. RV electrical systems require specialized knowledge—have a qualified RV technician inspect and repair the problem. Prevent outlet overheating by managing electrical loads carefully. Spread high-wattage appliances across different circuits rather than concentrating them on a single outlet. Regular inspection of outlets and connections helps catch problems before they become dangerous.
Remember that these warning signs indicate potentially life-threatening issues. The confined space of an RV means electrical fires can spread rapidly, leaving little time for response. Quick action when you notice problems protects both your RV investment and, more importantly, the safety of everyone aboard.
Regular electrical inspections are vital for RV safety yet frequently neglected in favor of more visible maintenance tasks. Unique challenges such as constant vibration, temperature swings, moisture, and dust can degrade electrical systems in RVs. Without regular checks, these issues can silently worsen until they create dangerous situations. Professional inspections catch critical problems early. A certified technician can identify loose connections from travel vibration, detect damaged wiring insulation, assess circuit loads, and verify that safety devices like breakers and GFCIs work properly.
Loose or corroded connections increase resistance and heat, while damaged wiring can cause shorts or arcing—both serious fire hazards. Establish a comprehensive inspection routine: Schedule professional inspections annually (even if everything seems fine). After long or rough trips, visually check power cords, outlets, and battery connections for obvious damage. Perform monthly DIY safety checks of GFCI outlets and watch for warning signs like warm outlets or burning smells. Never skip inspections to save time or money—the cost of prevention is far less than emergency repairs or fire damage.
The confined space of an RV means electrical problems can quickly become life-threatening. A proper inspection ensures all components work correctly — from basic outlets to critical safety devices like circuit breakers. Remember that RV electrical systems deteriorate faster than home systems due to constant movement and environmental exposure. Regular professional inspections combined with vigilant DIY monitoring protect both your investment and your safety while preventing unexpected breakdowns during travel. Electrical safety isn’t something you can afford to overlook.
And now you’re prepared to keep your RV adventures safe and smooth! Stay safe; keep exploring, and we’ll catch you in the next one!