When it comes to setting up your RV, having the right equipment for water and power connections is crucial for a smooth and safe experience, especially if you’re off-roading with your Mars camper or off-road trailer on an overland expedition. Here’s a rundown of what you’ll need to ensure everything runs smoothly:
Water Connection Essentials
First, you’ll need a water filter. There are filter kits available for better filtration, and many full-time RVers prefer these. We use an inline filterourselves—it’s just a matter of personal preference. You’ll also need a water pressure regulator. Campground water pressure can vary greatly depending on location, and your RV’s plumbing has specific pressure ratings to stay within. These can range from 60 to 100 PSI, but I recommend staying in the 45 to 50 PSI range. There are adjustable pressure regulatorsand static pressure regulators, but I suggest the adjustable version, as it allows you to fine-tune the pressure to match your RV’s needs.
Next, you’ll need a water hose. If you plan to drink the water from the campground, get a water-safe hose. More and more RVers are ditching rubber hoses in favor of expandable and collapsible hoses, which are much easier to store. I recommend getting at least 50 feet of hose—75 to 100 feetis even better for flexibility in where you park. A pipe tee isn’t essential, but it’s a handy tool for accessing water outside without disconnecting everything, which comes in handy when washing your hands or filling a bucket to extinguish a campfire.
You should also have a few gaskets on hand in case your water line leaks. A 90-degree fitting is another essential item. It helps keep the hose’s weight off the fitting on your RV, preventing the hose from kinking and causing damage.
Power Connection Essentials
For powering your RV, you won’t need much, but you will need a few key items. First, make sure you have the power cord that came with your RV. After that, you’ll need electrical protection in the form of a surge protector or an electrical management system (EMS). I use the Hughes Autoformer Portable Power Watchdog EMS unit, and they also offer hard-wired options. In my opinion, this is the best electrical protection you can get for an RV, and I didn’t get it for free—I bought it because I knew it was a must-have for my RV.
The Autoformer is Bluetooth-capable, allowing you to monitor the campground’s power pedestal right from your phone. It also has an emergency power shut-off feature for both high and low voltage, which is important because low voltage can be just as harmful to your RV as high voltage. Ensure the EMS unit matches your camper’s power plug. If you have a 30-amp camper, get a 30-amp EMS, and if you have a 50-amp camper, get a 50-amp EMS. One great feature of the Hughes power watchdog is that you can replace the surge protector module if it sacrifices itself during a surge, meaning you don’t have to buy a whole new EMS system.
Another essential item is a dog bone adapter. This adapter allows you to connect a 30-amp camper to a 50-amp pedestal, and vice versa. You might be thinking, “Why not just find a campsite that matches my RV’s power plug?” Unfortunately, not all campgrounds have 30 or 50-amp service, and this happens more often than you might think. The dog bone will allow you to plug your RV into whichever power pedestal is available.
By having these essential tools and supplies, you’ll be well-prepared for both off-road adventures and overland camping in your RV or trailer, ensuring you can handle any water or power issues that come your way.
Let’s take a walk outside, and I’ll show you how that will look. If you have a 30 amp RV, you’ll plug your power cord directly into your EMS as you would normally, and then this is a 30 amp. Our power pedestal is 50 amp, which we can’t plug into, so we’ll just connect this to the dog bone, and this is the 50 amp connection, which will go to the pedestal.
The last power connection essential I’ll cover today is optional, but it’s worth mentioning because many campgrounds have cable or satellite TV hookups. If you get rained in for a minute, pick up about 30 feet of RG6 coax cable.
Okay, let’s move over to the sewer connection. You’re only going to need a few essentials here, but the most important thing you’ll need is a box of rubber gloves. Don’t worry about powder-free or medical or food-grade—get something six mil thick. Not only do you want to wear rubber gloves anytime you’re touching anything black tank-related outside of the RV, but they also come in handy when doing repairs. Remember, some of us are boondocking, and that means limited water. You don’t have to waste getting oil and grease off your hands.
Next is your sewer hose. Nobody wants to be looking at what’s coming out of their black tank, but it is essential to see if what’s coming out is clear. If it’s unclear, you must keep rinsing and dumping until it is clear. This product is a must-have, and even though these clear elbows come apart, they still won’t fit in your standard RV bumper where you store your sewer hose. If that’s the case in your RV, pick up a bin with a lockable lid. You want to ensure you’re keeping these separated from everything else.
There are two other items I want to talk about real quick. While they might only be essential to some, they could save you headaches. They’re sewer hose supports that allow you to keep your hose going downhill so everything you flush out goes directly into the sewer, and it’s not sitting in your hose. Over time, your tank seals start to leak a little once you remove the cap from your sewer connection. If that is the case, you can get an external gate valve to connect your hose before you open the flow. Many people swear by these.
Okay, so let’s face it: the mattresses that come in most RVs are simply garbage. And despite all the different types of RVs and the different reasons to purchase an RV, we bought an RV to have some of the comforts of home. Otherwise, we bought tents. So, you’ll want to change your RV mattress immediately.
The next thing I want to cover is tire essentials. Unsafe tires can lead to many problems, like accidents, damage to your RV, and injury to you, your family, and others on the road. So, let’s start with a tire pressure monitoring system, also known as a TPMS.
I also keep a backup manual pump in my RV because I might need access to 12-volt power. While on the subject of tire safety, it’s a good idea to pick up a tire protectant. In the past, I’ve used 303 interior and exterior protectants. I’ve recently switched over to the 303 aerospace protectant. Some people say this is the best stuff on the market. You can use this on rubber, vinyl, and plastic, and you can use it on all the trim on Your RV tools and supplies. It will depend on your technical ability, RV type, and whether you’re a part-time or full-time RVer. Another factor to consider is that tools can be used to fix components on your tow vehicle and your RV. If you’re out for a ride in your tow vehicle and need tools, those tools are obviously not helpful if packed away in the RV.
These are all the tools and supplies we keep with us on the road: a half-inch breaker bar is essential. Remember that the lug nuts on your wheels may not be the same size as the lug nuts holding your spare tire on the RV. Walk around your RV and check everything to ensure you have the correct sizes.
It’s also essential to have a nice 3/8-inch socket set; I keep this DeWalt socket set in my truck. I always carry six different types of tape: turn tape and a roller for roof repairs, electric tape, duct tape, masking tape for seal repairs on the RV exterior, two types of Teflon tape (one standard plumber’s Teflon tape and one yellow Teflon tape for propane fittings in case you have a propane leak). Since we just mentioned electric tape, ensure a good set of wire cutters and a razor knife.
I also carry a hammer, a rubber mallet for plumbing repairs, a set of PEX crimpers, and some PEX shark bite fittings. It’s good to have a couple of feet of extra PEX pipe if you need to cut a new piece. If you’re not using turn-on tape for roof repairs, you’ll want some lap sealant, and a caulking gun is necessary.
I carry an extra hitch pin, an extra coupler pin, and the socket for the tongue jack in case I lose power, which will allow me to crank the tongue jack manually. I also keep an extra bag of random nuts, bolts, screws, washers, zip ties, and a few different ratchet straps. Pliers, needle-nose pliers, an adjustable wrench, channel locks, and vice grips are also essential, and I keep a tape measure with us. Screwdrivers are common sense, but it’s a good idea to check your RV for uncommon screw heads, like square bits, and get a screwdriver kit with various bits to cover your needs.
Work gloves are a good addition as well. I keep a pair in my truck and another pair in my RV. A volt meter is essential for any electrical diagnostics while on the road. Flashlights are lifesavers in many situations, and a headlamp is even better because it keeps your hands free when working in the dark. Even if you don’t hike, a backpack can help carry a few essential items you might need in an emergency. With all our electronics these days, a battery organizer is also necessary to stay stocked up on the batteries you need for your RV.
A 5-gallon bucket comes in handy for many different tasks. You can use it to cover your tongue jack, as a seat for working on low items, carry firewood, access water in your water tank if the pump fails, or put out campfires. If your RV doesn’t have a hydraulic leveling system, leveling ramps are a must. I use the Carm Tech leveling ramps, which work well on soft and hard ground when paired with anti-slip mats. Fuses are another essential item to carry; check your RV for the types of fuses it uses, and stock a kit or bag with extra fuses.
While some people may disagree, a ground mat is essential. If you’re camping on dirt or grass, it saves time cleaning, especially on rainy days. If you don’t already have one, pick up a hose nozzle to spray something off. Even with a hydraulic leveling system or leveling ramps, having some wood blocks is still a good idea. These can go under your tongue jack, stabilizer jacks, or steps to increase surface area and prevent sinking. These are useful in many situations, whether wooden blocks or pre-made plastic blocks.
You might need to replace exterior bulbs, so bring marker bulbs and brake light bulbs. Jumper cables are a must; if you camp remotely, consider getting a jumper pack. I always have an electric drill with us, and if you have manual crank-down stabilizer jacks, pick up a stabilizer jack bit. This will make putting down and taking up your stabilizer jacks much quicker.
Remember an umbrella and a couple of rain ponchos. Nobody wants to be caught in the rain, but you might find yourself in a situation where you’re parked on the side of the road, and you need to change a tire or make a repair. Keep a reflective triangle marker with you at all times, and it’s a good idea to have one of those high-visibility vests as well. I always keep these in my truck for quick access before getting out.
Other essential items include an entire bottle of mineral spirits, sealer, and plastic scrapers for seal repairs on the exterior of your RV. It’s easy to overlook essential items like utensils, cups, bowls, and plates. Plastic ware is often better for RVs since it’s lighter and less likely to break, especially with all the jostling on the road.
If you drink campground water, carrying some bottled water with you is still a good idea. Keep your checklists on your phone; owning and operating an RV involves many processes, and after seven years of RVing, I still refer to mine regularly.
A first-aid kit is necessary for your RV and tow vehicle. Be sure to have a copy of your owner’s manual; if you still need one, you can always download a digital version online. A fire extinguisher is also something to have, and if it wasn’t included with your RV, pick up at least a 2.5-pound ABC fire extinguisher. If you already have one, test it by pushing the button—if it doesn’t immediately pop back up, it’s time to replace it.
For flat tires, a bottle jack is your most popular option, and the big red 10-ton Torn is one of the most popular choices among RVers. Everyone should also carry an extension cord at a standard level. I use a 24-inch level, though many RVers prefer electronic systems. These items are essential if you need a hydraulic leveling system.
While x-chocks are not an absolute necessity, they provide horizontal stability to your RV by locking the wheels. If you camp in cold weather and can access free campground electricity, an electric heater can quickly pay for itself by saving you money on propane.
Lastly, it’s essential to regularly check the operation of your RV’s emergency windows, especially if you camp with children. Consider covering the windowsills with a blanket for easier and safer exits, and always keep blankets within arm’s reach of emergency windows.
RV essentials are not mandatory for everyone to carry, but they are prepared for unexpected situations. Everyone has different needs so that you can choose the items according to your situation.